Most bakers know that a sweltering summer time kitchen can wreak havoc on a recipe, however a lesser-known fact is that chilly winter kitchens may cause simply as a lot hassle—albeit of a unique kind. When kitchen temperatures dip under 70°F (21°C), pie and cookie doughs can find yourself dry and crumbly, layer truffles can dome and end up riddled with tunnels and holes, buttercreams can curdle, and breads can refuse to rise.
These points can manifest in delicate methods when it is solely 68°F—so delicate that you could be merely write them off as a fluke—however they’re going to develop extra excessive because the temperature drops. It isn’t simply that there is a chill within the air; it is that any given thermostat setting represents the temperature of our pantry staples and gear, like flour, sugar, and mixing bowls.
That is why cranking up the warmth or firing up the oven is not an answer. The air temperature might all of the sudden heat to a toasty 72°F, however deep in your pantry, that bag of flour will nonetheless be 65°F (or regardless of the case could also be). Happily, you’ll be able to sidestep these issues altogether if which methods they’re more likely to have an effect on.
Creaming Methodology
Many cake and cookie recipes will name for creaming the butter and sugar till “fluffy and lightweight.” The creaming course of will take for much longer than indicated whenever you’re working with chilly substances and gear, so abandon any estimated timetable and follow the visible cues. Give it time for the butter and sugar to melt and aerate—in any other case, even a easy espresso cake can wind up dense and gummy alongside the underside, or else pocked with holes.
If a kitchen is really chilly, under 65°F (18°C), the method will probably stall out, leaving the butter and sugar smeared across the bowl as a thick, heavy paste that may refuse to budge. In that case, I am going to get away my culinary torch to hit the blending bowl with a mild flame (three cheers for stainless-steel!) to assist loosen the butter. If you do not have one, seize a hair dryer, or set the bowl over a steaming water bathtub for only a few seconds to melt, not soften, the butter.
Alternatively, warming the sugar to about 70°F earlier than creaming may also help mimic the circumstances of a extra temperate kitchen. Merely pop a dish of sugar right into a low oven for a minute or two, and let it quiet down should you overshoot that focus on temperature. And should you occur to neglect about it, don’t be concerned—that is how I “invented” toasted sugar.
Emulsifying Eggs
Within the realm of baking, most recipes name for “room-temperature” eggs, however the soiled secret of recipe improvement is that “room temperature” normally means 70°F. So, whatever the precise temperature in your kitchen, that is the temperature it is best to goal for when warming up the eggs. In a bowl of scorching faucet water (say, 110°F/43°C), it can take about three minutes to heat up as many eggs.
Lots of my cookie recipes (corresponding to my old style chocolate chip cookies) might name for eggs “straight from the fridge” as a technique of controlling dough temperature to maintain issues cool. In fact, that is not mandatory in a chilly setting, so take into account warming the eggs to 70°F should you need assistance offsetting the results of including chilly substances, like flour and chocolate, in a while.
Kneading Pastry
It is tempting to assume {that a} pie dough wants extra water when it feels stiff, crumbly, and dry in winter months. However whenever you’re coping with issues attributable to environmental circumstances, altering the components will not tackle the underlying concern; it will solely create new issues. In pie dough, for instance, extra water means extra gluten improvement, and that makes pie doughs powerful and susceptible to shrinking as they bake. So please, do not alter the recipe—alter the dough temperature.
This may be carried out by merely utilizing 70°F water as a substitute of the chilly water most recipes name for. If it is actually frigid in your kitchen, warming the flour to about 70°F may also help, too—toss it in a low oven, and let it quiet down should you overshoot that objective. The perfect working temperature for pie dough is about 68°F (20°C), so the mixture of tepid flour and chilly butter ought to common proper out. If the deed is already carried out, and also you’re caught with a chilly dough that cracks and crumbles when rolled, let it sit in a barely heat setting till it reaches about 68°F, then attempt once more.
Whipping Buttercream
Whether or not you are making a basic Swiss meringue buttercream or the custard-based cream cheese buttercream from my ebook, a chilly buttercream is a curdled buttercream. Even once they do not appear like cottage cheese, chilly buttercreams have a greasy mouthfeel, and their stiff consistency makes them troublesome to unfold over a cake.
If that occurs to you, place the bowl of buttercream over a steaming water bathtub till it begins to soften across the edges, then return it to the stand mixer and whip till easy. This may be repeated as wanted to realize a wonderfully easy, silky-soft consistency.
Proofing Bread
Most recipes for yeast-raised breads embrace particulars for creating the perfect proofing setting, however many others name for proofing the bread at room temperature. When that falls effectively under 70°F, the dough will take for much longer to rise, which is okay by me. My desire is to flow and pay nearer consideration to a recipe’s visible cues, corresponding to when my cinnamon roll dough rises till it is mild sufficient to retain a shallow impression when gently poked.
If you would like to hurry issues up in a yeast-raised dough, attempt bringing the flour to about 70°F earlier than getting began. Hotter liquids may also help, too, however that may be a riskier transfer, because it has the potential to hurt the yeast. In any other case, your greatest wager is to create a hotter setting for the dough. My favourite trick is to microwave a mug of water till it is boiling-hot, then flip off the microwave and pop within the bowl of dough, primarily turning the microwave itself right into a cheater’s proof field.
With any of those steps, the objective is to not get issues scorching however to extra carefully mimic the circumstances of a 70°F setting, so restraint is vital. For the reason that underlying downside is a baking setting that is just a bit chilly, there isn’t any must go to extremes. A delicate nudge by a couple of levels in the correct course is all we have to conquer the chilly.